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Buying diamonds? Remember the four C’s

4 minutes

Jean Ghika, Bonhams Global Director Jewellery, shares the latest diamond market trends

When buying diamonds our advice for any buyer is to start with the four C’s:
carat weight, colour, clarity and cut – and buy the best quality you can afford.

At auction, there is an enduring appeal for white diamonds but increasingly we are seeing an appetite for coloured diamonds as people are embracing colour in their jewellery choices.

Our buyers seek out not only quality stones but heritage names such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron.

Bonhams London Jewels auction on June 13 and New York Jewels auction on June 6 achieved exceptional results for diamonds

In London, a spectacular fancy coloured diamond ring, the Mouawad ‘Toi Et Moi’ ring, sold for £2,952,400 million against a pre-sale estimate of £1m-£1.5m.

The Mouawad ‘Toi Et Moi’ ring has a radiant-cut fancy intense blue diamond, weighs 5.03 carats and is obliquely set with a radiant-cut fancy purple-pink diamond, weighing 5.13 carats. The gallery and shoulders are pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds of pink and blue tint.

In New York, three diamonds each achieved more than 1.4 million US dollars, just over £1m.

A fancy 12.21 carat diamond ring of deep brownish-pinkish-orange colour and VS1 clarity sold for more than four times its estimate at 1,875,000 US dollars (£1.43m).

A magnificent 29.29 carat Harry Winston diamond ring sold for 1,452,000 US dollars (£1.1m) while an impressive 28.19 carat emerald diamond ring, flanked by tapered- baguette-cut diamonds, sold for 1,421,750 US dollars (£1.08m).

(Image: Mouawad diamond and fancy coloured diamond ‘Toi Et Moi’ ring sold for £2,952,000.
Credit: Bonhams)

(Image: A fancy deep brownish-pinkish-orange colour ring sold for $1,875,000.
Credit: Bonhams)

(Image: A Harry Winston diamond ring, weighing 29.29 carats sold for $1,452,000.
Credit: Bonhams)

(Image: An impressive diamond ring weighing 28.19 carats sold for $1,452,000.
Credit: Bonhams)

Forthcoming auction

Bonhams Hong Kong Jewels and Jadeite live auction on December 1, 2024 features an exceptional 30.10 carats very light pink coloured, round brilliant-cut diamond from the property of a prestigious Asian collector.
The magnificent and rare unmounted diamond with VVS2 clarity weighs 30.10 carats. It is designated a Type lla and offered with an estimate of 12,000,000-18,000,000 Hong Kong dollars (£1.17m-£1.76m).

(Image: Hong Kong Jewels and Jadeite 1 December – 30.10 carats. Very light pink diamond. Credit: Bonhams)

Advice to buyers

It is best to buy stones that are accompanied by a gemmological certificate stating the size, colour and clarity. The most internationally recognised laboratory for diamonds is the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America) based in New York.

Bonhams are trusted experts within the field and all stones are examined in detail prior to sale by our team of specialists. In addition, many of the stones we offer are accompanied by a laboratory certificate. We always recommend viewing the item in person ahead of buying and meeting the specialists who are on hand to answer any questions.

Visit bonhams.com


Looking after your diamonds

Regular cleaning will make sure your jewellery remains in the best condition, helping your collection retain its value. A soft toothbrush can help clean diamond set pieces and gemstones, but care must be taken when handling settings. You can also take your pieces to be professionally cleaned by a jeweller. Keep your jewellery in individual velvet pouches or jewellery cases, not allowing them to sit loosely in a jewellery box or drawer together with other pieces of jewellery.

For high-value collections, you may need to invest in a safe. There are a range of grades to choose from on the market, and we’ve explained your options in our article: Safety First – top tips for your home safe. You may even find your home insurance specifies the need to keep certain jewels in a specific grade of safe in order to validate your policy – just ask your insurer or broker if you’re unsure.

Diamond certification

Not every diamond needs a certificate, and as a rule only diamonds that are higher than 0.25 carats in weight are certified. Smaller, inexpensive diamonds are unlikely to need certification – because a certificate won’t improve a particular stone’s quality, it simply details what that quality is.

Once you’re looking to buy a diamond of 0.25ct and above, certification gives you proof of a diamond’s authenticity and quality, as well as serving as proof of ownership. Not only does this make it easier to value the diamond in the current market, but it makes it simpler to sell in future too, if you ever wish to. You may also need a certificate for your jewellery insurance policy as a condition of cover. To find out more read our article: Diamond certification: what it is and why it matters.

Jewellery Insurance

Whether you are a long-term collector or new to buying diamonds, remember the importance of regular valuations. Professional jewellery valuations are vital, especially as market rates for precious metals and stones fluctuate quickly.

Insurers recommend that you obtain a jewellery valuation at least every five years, preferably three in today’s market. But check your schedule and policy wording for specific requirements.

Insurers will require any valuation to be for “insurance purposes” and for retail value. You should also consider how you would replace your jewellery in the event of a loss. Would you want a brand new replacement with a modern equivalent (New Replacement Value), second hand replacement value (which can be more than the retail value if there’s a waiting list for a piece) or would you prefer an antique replacement (Antique Replacement Value)?

Ensure the items are photographed, kept in good condition and your documentation is in a safe place to help in the event of a claim. It’s a good idea to send a copy of your valuations to your broker, whether or not the insurer requires it.

Howden are specialists in finding jewellery insurance solutions, something you should never have to do on your own. We can point you in the direction of trusted valuation experts and then arrange a policy which will protect your passion and investment.

To speak to Howden about insuring your jewellery call 020 8256 4901 or email privateclients@howdeninsurance.co.uk.


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